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Where do brands stand on viscose ?
The report evaluates a wide range of fashion brands on their viscose sourcing, focusing on whether they disclose their suppliers and adopt closed-loop manufacturing systems. While some brands like C&A, M&S, and H&M have signed the Changing Markets Roadmap and disclosed specific factory addresses, many others lack viscose-specific policies, fail to disclose fibre manufacturers, or focus solely on wood pulp sourcing rather than the chemical impacts of fibre manufacturing.
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Document type: Report
Escondido en la profundidad: destapando la verdad sobre la descomunal industria peruana del pienso y aceite de pescado
The report exposes the Peruvian fishmeal and fish oil (FMFO) industry as unsustainable, citing widespread corruption, overfishing of juvenile anchovies, and poor worker safety during the Covid-19 pandemic. It maps the supply chain from Peruvian producers like TASA and Austral Group to major European feed companies (e.g., Skretting, BioMar) and retailers (e.g., Aldi, Tesco, Sainsbury), arguing that sustainability certifications like MarinTrust are ineffective 'greenwashing'. The document calls for the global aquaculture sector to phase out FMFO by 2025 to protect marine ecosystems, particularly the Humboldt Current.
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Document type: Executive summary
Progress Update on Cameroon Rubber Accord – October 2020
The update reports that Halcyon Agri has ceased deforestation in Cameroon and implemented a global No Deforestation policy. Key progress includes the establishment of the Cameroon Sustainability Council, the creation of grievance mechanisms for legacy and new issues, and the development of water treatment systems targeting zero effluent at the Sudcam factory. However, a July 2020 latex spill near Kribi highlighted remaining gaps in company responsiveness and transparency. Halcyon has also improved its global ESG transparency, ranking second in the ZSL SPOTT rubber commodity ranking with a score of 69.6%.
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Document type: Statement
Stretching the possibilities for a sustainable rubber industry in 2020
Mighty Earth advocates for a sustainable natural rubber industry, highlighting the role of the Global Platform for Sustainable Natural Rubber (GPSNR) in addressing deforestation and human rights abuses. While acknowledging progress in stakeholder cooperation, the author identifies critical gaps in the GPSNR, including the lack of internal company policies, the absence of a grievance mechanism, and the non-participation of Chinese companies. The document calls for increased supply chain transparency, the inclusion of smallholder farmers, and a shift toward binding regulation to ensure a level playing field.
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Document type: Statement
Where do brands stand on viscose ?
The document provides a detailed audit of global brands' engagement with sustainable viscose production. It highlights a significant gap in transparency, as most brands disclose Tier 1 suppliers but fail to reveal the Tier 3 and 4 viscose fibre producers. While several brands have signed the Changing Markets Roadmap and committed to 'closed-loop' manufacturing by 2023-2025, many others lack specific viscose policies or chemical management standards like the ZDHC MRSL. A small group of 'frontrunners' such as Esprit, Tesco, and Marks and Spencer provide detailed lists of fibre suppliers, including major producers like Lenzing and Aditya Birla.
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Document type: Report
Generating Responsible Demand for Reduced Deforestation Commodities Child Project ID: 9182 / WWF ID - G0008 WWF-GEF Midterm Evaluation (MTE) Final Report
The project has achieved moderately satisfactory progress, with significant successes in soy (Cerrado agreement and Soy Toolkit) and supply chain transparency (Trase platform). However, progress in Indonesia's palm oil market and Paraguay's beef sector has been slower due to delays in consumer awareness and a lack of consensus on sustainability standards. The evaluation recommends strengthening communication strategies in Indonesia and adopting a systems approach in Paraguay to better integrate production, demand, and finance.
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Document type: Report
Dirty Fashion Disrupted: Leaders and laggards revealed
The report evaluates the fashion industry's transition to responsible viscose production, noting increased engagement from brands and some progress by producers toward EU Best Available Techniques (BAT) standards. While some European brands are leading in transparency and policy, many others—including several luxury and US-based brands—remain laggards. The document emphasizes that voluntary self-regulation is insufficient and calls for government legislation to ensure industry-wide compliance with environmental standards.
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Document type: Executive summary
Dirty Fashion Disrupted
The report evaluates the environmental performance and transparency of 91 clothing brands and several major viscose producers. It finds that while some European brands and producers like Lenzing and Aditya Birla Group are moving toward EU Best Available Techniques (BAT) standards, many others—particularly US brands and the Chinese viscose industry—remain laggards. The document argues that voluntary initiatives are insufficient and calls for mandatory government regulation to ensure a sector-wide transition to closed-loop production.
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Document type: Report
Fishing for Catastrophe
The report finds that the production of fishmeal and fish oil (FMFO) for aquaculture is driving the collapse of fish stocks and compromising food security in India, Vietnam, and The Gambia. It establishes links between these unsustainable practices and major European retailers and aquafeed companies, arguing that current certification by the Marine Ingredients Organisation (IFFO) acts as a 'sustainability smokescreen'. The document recommends a total phase-out of wild-caught fish in aquafeed in favor of sustainable alternatives and a shift toward farming omnivorous or herbivorous species.
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Document type: Executive summary
Fishing for Catastrophe
The report argues that the production of fishmeal and fish oil (FMFO) for aquaculture is precipitating the collapse of fish stocks and undermining food security in developing nations. Through field investigations in India, Vietnam, and Gambia, it documents the use of juvenile fish and non-target species, illegal, unreported, and unregulated (IUU) fishing, and the diversion of human-grade fish to animal feed. The document identifies links between these unsustainable practices and major European retailers and global aquafeed companies, while criticizing the Marine Ingredients Organization (IFFO) for conflicts of interest in its certification processes. It recommends a transition to sustainable feed alternatives and the elimination of wild-caught fish in aquaculture feeds.
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Document type: Executive summary
Pescando una catástrofe
The report argues that the production of fish meal and fish oil (FMFO) for aquaculture is precipitating the collapse of fish populations and threatening food security in regions like India, Vietnam, and Gambia. It maps supply chains linking unsustainable and often illegal fishing practices to major European retailers and global aquafeed companies, while critiquing the Marine Ingredients Organisation (IFFO) for providing a 'smoke screen' of sustainability through its certifications. The document recommends a transition away from wild-caught fish in aquafeeds toward sustainable alternatives and the cultivation of species that do not require FMFO.
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Document type: Executive summary
Fishing for Catastrophe
The report argues that the production of fishmeal and fish oil (FMFO) for aquaculture is precipitating the collapse of fish stocks and compromising food security in the Global South. Investigations in India, Vietnam, and The Gambia reveal rampant illegal, unregulated, and unreported (IUU) fishing, including the capture of juvenile fish and the use of illegal nets. The report establishes links between these unsustainable practices and major European aquafeed companies and retailers. It further critiques the Marine Ingredients Organisation (IFFO) certification as a 'sustainability smokescreen' and warns that the industry's reliance on finite wild-fish resources poses a systemic risk to the aquaculture sector's long-term viability.
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Document type: Report
DECLARACIÓN DE NUEVA YORK SOBRE LOS BOSQUES
The report evaluates the five-year progress of the New York Declaration on Forests (NYDF), concluding that while localized successes exist, global efforts are not on track to meet 2020 and 2030 goals. It identifies eight core lessons, emphasizing that political will, strong governance, and secure land tenure for indigenous peoples are critical for success. The document highlights a significant gap between high-level commitments and ground-level implementation, noting that deforestation has accelerated by up to 44% since 2014. It calls for a paradigm shift in financing, moving from 'grey' to 'green' finance, and a stronger integration of nature-based solutions into national climate agendas.
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Document type: Report
Progress on the New York Declaration on Forests Goal 10 Assessment
The 2019 assessment of Goal 10 finds that global progress in forest governance remains slow, with illegality continuing to drive deforestation. While some countries like Indonesia have improved policy efforts, others have weakened protections through legislative amendments. The report highlights a critical gap between formal laws and their implementation, particularly regarding the land rights of indigenous peoples and local communities (IPLCs), who manage significant carbon stores but face high levels of violence and criminalization. Demand-side measures in the EU and France are strengthening, but private sector commitments to eliminate deforestation are largely not on track for 2020 targets.
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Document type: Report
2019-04-10_Joint_letter_EC_FINAL copy
The authors argue that the European Commission's Strategic Approach to Pharmaceuticals in the Environment is insufficient to address the risks of pharmaceutical pollution and antimicrobial resistance (AMR). They highlight that AMR causes over 25,000 deaths annually in the EU and costs the economy more than €1.5 billion. To address these threats, the letter proposes five specific measures: increasing supply chain transparency to prevent double standards in developing countries, expanding Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) to include compulsory environmental criteria for overseas factories, requiring compulsory environmental risk assessments (ERA) for all human and veterinary medical products, adding pharmaceuticals to the Environmental Quality Standards (EQS) Directive, and establishing a mandatory EU monitoring system for antimicrobials and AMR microorganisms in the environment.
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Document type: Statement
Calculating maritime shipping emissions per traded commodity
The Stockholm Environment Institute (SEI) and University College London (UCL) have developed a method to eliminate the opacity of cargo shipping emissions by matching satellite-based automatic identification system (AIS) data with vessel operational characteristics and shipping manifests. This approach allows for the precise allocation of greenhouse gases and air pollutants to individual commodity shipments, exporters, importers, and traders. A pilot study of Brazilian exports in 2014 revealed that shipping emissions added 5% to the country's reported CO2 emissions, with the largest shares attributed to iron ore and soybean exports to China. The authors argue that scaling this approach can inform international climate negotiations, improve lifecycle assessments, and enhance shipping industry efficiency.
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Document type: Briefing
Sustainability and Second Life: The case for cobalt and lithium recycling
The report argues that while cobalt and lithium are critical for the low-carbon transition, their current recycling rates are low—specifically less than 5% for lithium-ion batteries. It identifies barriers across the primary supply chain (such as conflict and child labour in the DRC), the recycling chain (inefficient collection and technical challenges), and regulatory environments (inapt definitions and ambiguous liability). The authors recommend enhancing eco-design, raising consumer awareness to reduce 'hibernation' of electronics, and updating regulatory frameworks to include clear definitions and meaningful recycling targets to support the UN Sustainable Development Goals and the circular economy.
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Document type: Report
Sustainable Fashion Survey
The survey reveals a strong consumer demand for transparency regarding environmental commitments and supply chain locations, though a significant majority find it difficult to identify ethical brands and distrust company-provided sustainability information.
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Document type: Report
Meningkatkan Tata Kelola untuk Melindungi Hutan: Memberdayakan Masyarakat dan Komunitas, Memperkuat Hukum dan Kelembagaan
The report finds that while some progress has been made in forest transparency and law enforcement, governance improvements are too slow to significantly reduce deforestation. It highlights critical failures in securing indigenous land rights, persistent corruption, and increasing violence against land defenders. While some Asian economies have adopted demand-side regulations against illegal logging, systemic weaknesses in enforcement and transparency continue to hinder forest protection.
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Document type: Executive summary
Progress on the New York Declaration on Forests
The report finds that improvements in forest governance are too slow to measurably reduce deforestation, with significant gaps remaining in the legal recognition of indigenous land rights and the enforcement of forest laws. While some progress has been made in transparency and demand-side regulations in emerging economies, corruption remains rampant and violence against land defenders is increasing. The assessment highlights that secure tenure for local communities is more effective for forest protection than legally protected areas, yet a substantial portion of occupied lands remains unrecognized by governments.
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Document type: Executive summary