Trashion : L’exportation cachée de vêtements usagés en plastique à destination du Kenya

The report reveals that a significant portion of second-hand clothing exported to Kenya consists of unusable synthetic fibers, effectively bypassing plastic waste export restrictions. In 2021, an estimated 307 million items of plastic-based clothing exported to Kenya were unusable waste. These items often end up in landfills, the Nairobi River, or are burned as fuel, releasing toxic fumes. The document criticizes the 'fast fashion' model and the lack of sorting at the source by EU and UK exporters, noting that some recycling companies signed onto sustainability initiatives are simultaneously exporting waste. It calls for global legislation, including extended producer responsibility and plastic taxes, to end the export of plastic clothing waste to the Global South.

• A substantial volume of second-hand clothing exported to Kenya consists of synthetic fibers that are too poor in quality to be reused, effectively acting as plastic waste exports. In 2021, it is estimated that over 900 million items of second-hand clothing were exported to Kenya, of which 458 million were unusable waste and 307 million of those likely contained plastic fibers.
• The lack of sorting at the source allows EU and UK exporters to retain high-quality items for European markets while shipping unusable items—sometimes damaged, stained, or unsuitable for the local climate—to Kenya. Traders report that 20% to 50% of the clothing in purchased bales is unsellable.
• Low-quality imported clothing, known as 'fagia', causes severe environmental pollution and health risks in Kenya. These textiles are found in landfills, the Nairobi River, and are frequently burned as fuel (e.g., for roasting peanuts), leading residents to inhale toxic fumes from burning synthetics.
• Global fashion brands such as Guess, H&M, M&S, Next, Old Navy, Ralph Lauren, and Superdry have been identified among the 'fagia' clothing found in Kenyan landfills or burned.
• There is a contradiction between the public sustainability claims of some recycling companies and their actual practices. Companies like JMP Wilcox, East London Textiles, Nathans Wastesavers, and Savanna Rags are signatories of the Textiles 2030 initiative or members of Fashion for Good, yet they are involved in the export of clothing waste to the Global South.
• The report argues that voluntary programs are insufficient and calls for global legislation, including the European Commission's 'Strategy for Sustainable Textiles'. Proposed measures include extended producer responsibility (EPR) to make brands financially accountable for end-of-life management, design criteria for recyclability, and plastic taxes to discourage cheap synthetic materials.
• The volume of second-hand clothing sent to Kenya is excessive, averaging 17 garments per inhabitant per year, with at least 8 of those being too damaged or unsuitable for use.

APA

Changing Markets Foundation (2023). Trashion : L’exportation cachée de vêtements usagés en plastique à destination du Kenya. https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/French-Ex-Summary-Trashion.pdf

Chicago

Changing Markets Foundation. Trashion : L’exportation cachée de vêtements usagés en plastique à destination du Kenya. 2023. https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/French-Ex-Summary-Trashion.pdf.

Wikipedia

{{cite report |author=Changing Markets Foundation |title=Trashion : L’exportation cachée de vêtements usagés en plastique à destination du Kenya |date=February 2023 |url=https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/French-Ex-Summary-Trashion.pdf |access-date=23 October 2026 |via=Climate Insights Directory}}

BibTeX

@techreport{changingmarketsfoundation2023trashion, author = {{Changing Markets Foundation}}, title = {{Trashion : L’exportation cachée de vêtements usagés en plastique à destination du Kenya}}, institution = {Changing Markets Foundation}, year = {2023}, month = feb, url = {https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/French-Ex-Summary-Trashion.pdf}, urldate = {2026-10-23}, note = {Indexed by Climate Insights Directory} }