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Sustainable Cotton or Recycled Polyester? The conscious shopper’s dilemma

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This guide from the International Institute for Sustainable Development (IISD) provides consumers with strategies for navigating the sustainable fashion market, specifically comparing natural fibres like cotton with synthetic alternatives. It highlights the role of Voluntary Sustainability Standards (VSSs) and warns against vague sustainability claims and the blending of natural and synthetic fibres.

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  • The global fashion industry, valued at USD 3 trillion, faces significant environmental risks; if it maintains current practices, it could account for up to 25% of the global carbon budget by 2050, potentially becoming the second most polluting industry after oil and gas.
  • Voluntary Sustainability Standards (VSSs) for cotton—including the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Organic (GOTS and OCS), and Cotton made in Africa (CmiA)—accounted for at least 14.1% of global cotton production in 2016. These standards aim to reduce pesticide and water use while improving wages and working conditions.
  • Different cotton sustainability standards have varying compliance and traceability rules. Organic, GOTS, and OCS ensure identity preservation throughout the supply chain to prevent mixing with conventional fibres, whereas BCI allows mixing after the ginning process. Additionally, BCI permits genetically modified cotton, while Organic, Fairtrade, and CmiA prohibit it.
  • Natural fibres like cotton, linen, and hemp have high environmental impacts during the farming stage due to water and pesticide use, but are biodegradable and recyclable. In contrast, blending natural and synthetic fibres eliminates a garment's biodegradability and recyclability. Organic cotton farming specifically reduces global warming potential by 46% compared to conventional cotton.
  • Consumers are advised to avoid vague sustainability claims and instead look for quantified percentages of sustainable materials. The guide suggests seeking brands with public sustainability commitments and using platforms like CottonUP and Fashion for Good to make informed decisions.

Cite the original document

APA
Bermúdez,, S. (2020). Sustainable Cotton or Recycled Polyester? The conscious shopper’s dilemma. International Institute for Sustainable Development. https://www.iisd.org/articles/insight/sustainable-cotton-or-recycled-polyester-conscious-shoppers-dilemma
Chicago
Bermúdez,, Steffany. Sustainable Cotton or Recycled Polyester? The conscious shopper’s dilemma. International Institute for Sustainable Development, 2020. https://www.iisd.org/articles/insight/sustainable-cotton-or-recycled-polyester-conscious-shoppers-dilemma.
Wikipedia
{{cite report |last1=Bermúdez, |first1=Steffany |title=Sustainable Cotton or Recycled Polyester? The conscious shopper’s dilemma |publisher=International Institute for Sustainable Development |date=10 August 2020 |url=https://www.iisd.org/articles/insight/sustainable-cotton-or-recycled-polyester-conscious-shoppers-dilemma |access-date=17 August 2026 |via=Climate Insights Directory}}
BibTeX
@techreport{bermdez2020sustainable, author = {Bermúdez,, Steffany}, title = {{Sustainable Cotton or Recycled Polyester? The conscious shopper’s dilemma}}, institution = {International Institute for Sustainable Development}, year = {2020}, month = aug, url = {https://www.iisd.org/articles/insight/sustainable-cotton-or-recycled-polyester-conscious-shoppers-dilemma}, urldate = {2026-08-17}, note = {Indexed by Climate Insights Directory} }

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