Synthétiques Anonymes
Summary
The report finds that the fashion industry remains heavily dependent on synthetic fibres, with 25% of analyzed brands increasing their use. It highlights a critical lack of transparency in supply chains and criticizes the reliance on PET bottle recycling as a 'false solution' that does not reduce overall synthetic volumes. Most brands fail to address microfiber pollution or invest significantly in fiber-to-fiber recycling, while some continue to source polyester from coal-based production despite climate pledges.
Key insights
- The fashion industry's dependence on synthetic fibres has not significantly shifted over the last five years; 14 of 55 analyzed brands (25%) actually increased their use of synthetic fibres in both volume and as a percentage of their total fibre mix.
- Supply chain transparency is extremely low, with 87% of the 31 brands that responded to questions about synthetic fibre suppliers providing insufficient data. Only four brands—Levi Strauss & Co, Next, and Reformation (along with one other)—provided explicit supplier lists.
- Brands are heavily reliant on 'downcycling' PET bottles as a sustainability strategy, with 81% of brands setting goals to increase recycled synthetics. However, 99% of this recycled polyester comes from PET bottles, and no company linked this commitment to a reduction in the total volume of synthetic materials used.
- Investment in fiber-to-fiber recycling technology is minimal. H&M Group's 2021 direct investment of 3.7 million euros in companies like Ambercycle, Infinited Fiber, and Re:newcell represents only 0.04% of its gross profit margins of 9.58 billion euros.
- Microfiber pollution is largely ignored; 45% of brands are in the 'red zone' due to a lack of clear policies or information. Only Reformation was classified as a 'frontrunner' for committing to phase out synthetics based on the precautionary principle to combat microfiber shedding.
- Climate goals are often contradicted by actual emissions and sourcing practices. Lululemon increased its scope 3 emissions by 36% in 2021 compared to 2020, and Boohoo's emissions rose by 29% between 2020 and 2021. Additionally, brands including Adidas, Asda, C&A, H&M, Inditex, and PVH Group have been linked to the Chinese group Hengli, which is investing $20 billion to produce polyester from coal.
- There is significant industry support for proposed EU textile legislation, including Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) (80% support), eco-design criteria (83% support), and legislation to reduce false green claims (94% support).
Cite the original document
- APA
- Changing Markets Foundation (2022). Synthétiques Anonymes. https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/EX-SUM-FR-Syntetics-Anonymous-2.0-.pdf
- Chicago
- Changing Markets Foundation. Synthétiques Anonymes. 2022. https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/EX-SUM-FR-Syntetics-Anonymous-2.0-.pdf.
- Wikipedia
- {{cite report |author=Changing Markets Foundation |title=Synthétiques Anonymes |date=December 2022 |url=https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/EX-SUM-FR-Syntetics-Anonymous-2.0-.pdf |access-date=23 October 2026 |via=Climate Insights Directory}}
- BibTeX
- @techreport{changingmarketsfoundation2022synthtiques, author = {{Changing Markets Foundation}}, title = {{Synthétiques Anonymes}}, institution = {Changing Markets Foundation}, year = {2022}, month = dec, url = {https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/EX-SUM-FR-Syntetics-Anonymous-2.0-.pdf}, urldate = {2026-10-23}, note = {Indexed by Climate Insights Directory} }
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